What to do in Belgrano, a guide to the best places to visit in one of the largest neighborhoods in the city.
The Belgrano neighborhood is one of the largest and most populated in the city, concentrating some of the busiest and most iconic spots in Buenos Aires. Today the famous Chinatown, the only one of its kind in Argentina, has become popular among porteños, but also and located very close to it are very beautiful and traditional places that mark the history of Belgrano from when it was a town to becoming a neighborhood of Buenos Aires.
Although Belgrano is not one of the neighborhoods that foreign tourists usually visit or those who are in Buenos Aires for the first time for 4 or 5 days, being less popular than Palermo, San Telmo or Recoleta, it constitutes a very pleasant walk for those who visit Buenos Aires through second time, those who want to see the Chinatown or for the same porteños who visit it on weekends.
It is located just a few blocks from the renowned Rose Garden, being within the Palermo Parks, between Av. Libertador and Freyre.
If your walk through the Bosques de Palermo requires a technical stop, this is a great option and you will find a variety of menus and places to sit and enjoy the outdoors without having to go far.
The San Telmo market is one of the few large markets that continue to function of those that existed in all the Buenos Aires neighborhoods at the end of the 19th century. It was built by the architect Buschiazzo in 1897 and served as a large market supplier of fruits, vegetables and food. The building has an iron arched structure that is wonderful. Today the market is a mixture, it still has some stands selling food such as butcher and greengrocers, but some antique dealers have also been established since the neighborhood organized the antiques fair in the 70s and in recent years the market began to evolve into a very rich and varied gastronomic pole with grills, coffees, sandwich shops and all kinds of food on the way and in the bar.
The San Telmo Fair takes place every Sunday and originated around the famous Dorrego Square, the second oldest square in the city after Plaza de Mayo. There, surrounded by picturesque colonial and classic buildings and with the towers of the church of San Telmo in sight, antique dealerships are established that since 1970 have sold artistic objects of all kinds. The fair began as an idea by the architect José María Peña as a way to rescue the neighborhood and its traditions and invite everyone to visit the neighborhood on weekends.
The San Telmo neighborhood takes its name from Saint Pedro Gonzalez Telmo, protector of sailors. The church that takes its name is located a few meters from Plaza Dorrego and is one of the most beautiful in Buenos Aires. It is a colonial church originally built by Jesuits but which was later clad in the 19th and 20th centuries with a Baroque-Iberian facade. Inside there are several paintings of saints in the Buenos Aires filleting style. Next to the church is the colonial cloister that today is the prison museum.
On Defense Street, reaching Avenida Independencia, there is an old house built in 1876 for the Ezeiza Family. The house is one of the last aristocratic residences built in the neighborhood during the great move of wealthy families to Recoleta. It is an Italian-style residence with lined courtyards, iron columns and even the old cistern that has been maintained, creating an atmosphere of old Buenos Aires before the great development of French academicism towards the north of the city. Undoubtedly one of the most picturesque places in San Telmo. Today the house is a commercial gallery called The Defense Passage (Pasaje la Defensa) with clothing, handicraft and antique shops.
This gallery is the most “intagram friendly” place in San Telmo. It is a commercial promenade located on the site where the patriot Domingo French lived. The house has kept its old layout of consecutive courtyards with beautiful plants and flowers and covered in colorful umbrellas, a fashion started in Portugal and spread throughout the world, to give a magical touch to the environment.
In San Telmo is the narrowest house in Buenos Aires. It is a facade of only 2.5 meters located in the picturesque San Lorenzo Passage and which is popularly known as “the minimal house”. The legend says that a freed slave lived there and the house would be a connection with that old Buenos Aires past where the Afro-descendant population was still a large part of the population of colonial Buenos Aires. The reality is a bit more disappointing: architect José María Peña, who founded the San Telmo fair and was an expert on heritage, concluded that the minimal house is a subdivision into parcels of a larger old property. Likewise, the minimal house continues to enchant all visitors to San Telmo for its curious appearance and the legends that surround it.
In 1985, by accident, a businessman who had invested buying an old house from 1830 for a gastronomic project found archaeological remains of the tubing of the old Tercero del Sur, a stream that crossed San Telmo and emptied into the Río de la Plata. This businessman then decided to change his plans and dedicate himself completely to the archaeological rescue of the ancient tunnels that can be visited today. It is undoubtedly the best archaeological site in Buenos Aires and the only place where tunnels under the city can be seen in a clear and accessible way. The visit is paid and with a guide, so we recommend scheduling it or leaving it for a second visit to the neighborhood or if you live in Buenos Aires. Although it is interesting, for international or foreign tourists who will only spend a day in the neighborhood, it can be ignored.
In San Telmo there is part of the “Paseo de la Historia” (Comic Tour), a series of nice statues that remind us of great people from Argentine comic strips and comics from the 60s and 70s mostly. At the corner of Defensa and Chile is the most famous and beloved character of all: Mafalda, who according to its author Quino lives in the San Telmo Neighborhood. It is common to see tourists from all over the world lining up to get their precious photo with this girl who touches the hearts of all Argentines.
Lezama Park is a traditional park, it was originally the Garden of the House of José Gregorio Lezama and later donated by his widow to the city of Buenos Aires. The park is characterized by its romantic design of winding paths, gazebos, statues, vessels, and an old amphitheater. Also there is the monument to Pedro de Mendoza and on Calle Brasil street the Russian Orthodox church that dazzles with its Moscow style. On Defense Street, the old Lezama mansion in a picturesque Italian style remains, which today is the National Historical Museum, a must for those interested in Argentine history.
Caseros Avenue separates the San Telmo neighborhood from Barracas and is where some of the most beautiful buildings in the area were built. There the houses were built for the British workers of the Southern Railway called “tenement of the English” in a beautiful building that transports us to a classic European boulevard. Continuing uphill we also find several very beautiful buildings. Today the avenue has become a gastronomic pole with an interesting offer of bars and restaurants.
Donation made by its author, the Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano.
Its magic lies in its electrical system, which manages to automatically open and close the flower petals, depending on what time of day it is. During the night, the flower closes containing a red glow inside, and then opens in the morning of the next day. This mechanism is the same that closes the flower in moments of strong winds, simulating the process of nature.
It is a traditional walk in the City of Buenos Aires. Located in the San Telmo neighborhood, on the border with La Boca and Barracas, between Defensa, Brasil, Av. Paseo Colón and Av. Martín García streets.
It has several sculptures, monuments such as Pedro de Mendoza, a viewpoint and a fountain.
The renowned landscaper Carlos Thays, was the one who incorporated new plant species. In addition, this space has large monuments and sculptures, which you will easily find. One of the most impressive is the one dedicated to General San Martín and the Armies of Independence.
Due it is located in such a central place in the Retiro neighborhood, you will find many bars, breweries, restaurants and kiosks, so any plan to walk to Plaza San Martín is good.
With more than 7 hectares, it is the center of 6,000 plant species. As you walk through the Garden, each species has its name so that you can learn about each of the varieties found there.
We provide you with the garden hours so that you can plan your visit to the place well. On Mondays it is closed for cleaning and specific care. In summer (September 22 to April 21) it opens Tuesday to Friday from 8 a.m. to 6:45 p.m. and Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 9:30 a.m. to 6:45 p.m. In winter (April 22 to September 21) Tuesday to Friday open from 8 a.m. to 5:45 p.m. and Saturday, Sunday and holidays from 9:30 a.m. to 5:45 p.m.
Located in the heart of Palermo, very close to the Bosques de Palermo, it is a space of harmony that cuts through the bustle of the city. It is like entering a world of Japanese fantasy. Without a doubt, we believe that you are going to fall in love with this wonder, so we recommend you go early and early. In this way, you will not be in a hurry and you can walk calmly throughout its interior.
All its elements seek balance and harmony. The bridges inside are symbols, such as the Bridge of God, curved and representing the way to paradise; the Truncated Bridge, which leads to the island of miraculous remedies, and the Bridge of decisions or Zig Zag Bridge.
A characteristic that distinguishes it and differentiates it from the other parks is that it is one of the few that has a great variety of sculptures. Here, you will find outstanding works by great and well-known artists such as Marta Minujín (“United Nations“); the plastic artist Fernando Botero (“Male Torso“); the Italian sculptor Alejo Afani (“Pro National Culture“); among many others.
What we do ask you is that, if you consume something in the park, then take your garbage to the nearest bin, to preserve the place. Preserving green spaces is everyone’s job!
It is a park open to the public in the heart of Palermo. Located at Av. Sarmiento and Av. Las Heras, it is in charge of the Ministry of the Environment and Public Space of the City. Several Special Projects have been created for animal care.
The entrance to the park is through Av. Sarmiento 2601 and its hours are from Wednesday to Sunday (and holidays), from 10 am to 5 pm. Closed due to rain!